November 2023
KOREA

Local

Written by
Sung Ji Yeon

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Local

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The Nocturnal
Charms of Tongyeong

The Korean poet Baek Seok once described Tongyeong as ¡°the place where you awake suddenly from your slumbers with the urge to go down to the sea.¡± That¡¯s how beautiful the city is. Its natural charms are numerous: lush forests and 570 islands dotting the vast sea. It¡¯s a place that enlivens scenes from ordinary life like bustling markets and fishermen at work.

The scenery of Tongyeong is even more impressive at night. After dark, the city is illuminated by the history preserved at Samdo Sugun Tongjeyeong (the naval headquarters of the three provinces) and Yi Sun-sin Park, the seascapes offered by a marine taxi and a park that brings to life vanished murals from age-old villages. Gorgeous but not gaudy, these are the kind of sights you never get tired of seeing.

Sites with a Rich Historical Legacy

The name ¡°Tongyeong¡± comes from ¡°Samdo Sugun Tongjeyeong,¡± meaning the naval headquarters of the three provinces. That was the military unit commanded by Yi Sun-sin, the admiral famous for his defense of the Joseon Dynasty. Once inside Tongjeyeong, climb the stairs to reach a large wooden hall called Sebyeonggwan. The hall¡¯s name means ¡°washing off the weapons,¡± conveying the hope of bygone Koreans that war would come no more. If you remove your shoes and stand upon the wooden floor of the hall, you can get a view of Tongyeong¡¯s peaceful downtown, highlighting the key role that the old naval headquarters played in the city¡¯s present prosperity.

If Tongjeyeong isn¡¯t enough history for you, you can go for a stroll in Yi Sun-sin Park. The expanse of the sky, the sandy beaches and cliffs facing the sea and the tropical trees make a splendid harmony. Mention must be made of the statue of the admiral in the middle of the park. Standing tall amid the exotic scenery, Yi holds a sword in one hand and points toward the sea with his other hand. Looking at the statue, you can¡¯t help but feel that the admiral is still watching over the sea even now.

Exploring the City Aboard a Boat

Around dusk, a crowd gathers at the marine taxi docks in front of the Tong yeong Marine Sports Center. People are there to join an ocean tour that offers a splendid view of the city at night. The ride on the boat is truly magical―colorful lights twinkle on the land, soothing music plays, the ocean breeze caresses your cheeks, and a guide gives an elaborate account about Tongyeong. All the elements blend together like a lovely dream.

As you ride the boat and look out at the surroundings, you pass by three bridges. First is the pedestrian bridge at Gangguan Harbor, where officers once monitored boats entering the port. The water here is as calm as a lake. The bridge offers a stunning view of two docked Geobukseon turtle ships, restaurants along the street and a Joseon-era watchtower overlooking Gangguan Harbor. Their lights twinkle on the water, running together and scattering apart like the brush strokes of an abstract painting.

Moving past Gangguan Harbor, the taxi takes you to Chungmugyo Bridge. The bridge¡¯s two piers are decorated with sections of ¡°Tongyeong Harbor¡± and ¡°Munhwagyo Bridge,¡± both paintings by Jeon Hyuck Lim, a Korean artist whose style has been compared to Picasso¡¯s. When you gaze upon these faintly illuminated paintings, it¡¯s hard not to be moved by their nostalgic depictions of how Koreans used to live.

Past Chungmugyo Bridge spread the dark waters of the ocean. Take a moment to imagine what you will see next as you approach the unimaginable beauty of Tongyeongdaegyo Bridge. The lights on the arches of the bridge and the surrounding paths shimmer in the colors of the rainbow, making the bridge even more charming. The taxi pauses here for a short photo opportunity; don¡¯t miss your chance to stand on the bow and take an unforgettable photo in front of Tongyeongdaegyo Bridge.

Experience Your Imagination Becoming Reality

If you¡¯re looking for a little more excitement, visit DPIRANG after 7 p.m. This digital theme park is organized around a search for murals that have vanished from the villages of Dongpirang and Upon your arrival at DPIRANG, the first thing you notice is the Citizens¡¯ Culture Center. There¡¯s a painting by Jeon Hyuck Lim on one side of the building, along with items symbolizing Tongyeong such as mother-of-pearl lacquerware, a traditional Korean craft. Stepping inside the theme park, you are transported into the world of the imagination. The quiet daytime greenery and statuary of Nammangsan Sculpture Park are gone, replaced with a stunning spread of eye-catching media art.

While listening to the songs of Tongyeong composer Yun I-sang and a mysterious musical version of Namhaean Byeolsingut (Village Ritual of the South Coast), walk through the glittering cave of Twinkle-Purple to Ancient Camellia, a huge and ancient tree that seems to be coming to life. Look through the telescope at Painted Sea to see murals drawn over the actual landscape. Then enter the Secret Room, a huge room lined with paintings by Tongyeong artists, for the experience of being inside a work of art.

After drinking deep in the wonderous sights of the realm of the imagination, you reach the final section called DPIRANG. The large walls that rise beneath a starry sky instantaneously display paintings when you insert balls of light. Here they are―the murals that vanished from Dongpirang and Seopirang! Visitors of all ages delight in the sweeping paintings revealed by a single touch. The murals of Tongyeong provide the backdrop for a festival that all can enjoy.

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