April 2023

At Your Own Pace

Northern Wanju is where you can experience the essence of the county¡¯s natural attractions. That¡¯s the site of Daedunsan Mountain, considered the most stunning mountain in Korea¡¯s southwestern region. A thousand or so massive boulders run for 6 kilometers below the tallest peak of Macheondae (878 meters), creating a gorgeous alpine vista. Here¡¯s a tip for anyone interested in hiking the mountain: go at your own pace. Forget about being swept along by the crowd on the streets downtown—here, you can walk however fast or slow you choose. There¡¯s nothing wrong with getting an occasional lift from a cable car or lingering on the path to admire a pleasing landscape.

If you¡¯re more interested in relaxing in the crisp forest air than going for a trek, how about visiting the cypress woods to the south? Hundreds of thousands of cypress trees here release phytoncides, organic chemicals that invigorate both the mind and body. The magic of the forest is magnified by piles of stones stacked up by people hoping their wishes will come true. If the cypress forest is your aim, don¡¯t let a little drizzle keep you away. Sunny days have their place, but the ethereal mood evoked by mist looming over the ground has a charm of its own.

Inimitable History

Southern Wanju boasts of inimitable historical sites. Soyang Township is home to Wibongsanseong Fortress, built in 1675; old houses that are 250 years old; and Songgwang Temple, which dates back to the Silla Dynasty. Interestingly, the old houses here were relocated from such places as Jinju, Gochang and Muan. Historical structures that can¡¯t be reproduced through contemporary techniques were moved here, bearing witness to the long centuries.

Other sites have been recreated through traditional methods, including O Sung Hanok Village. The 23 newly built Hanok (traditional houses) in the village are inhabited today. The entrance to each house is adorned with its own doorplate: ¡°House of Dreams,¡± ¡°Fortunate House,¡± ¡°Just a Happy House.¡± While reading the doorplates that express the residents¡¯ varying philosophies, you may find yourself wondering what your own doorplate should say.

A half hour¡¯s drive brings you to Daeseung Hanji Village, a place where tradition can be not only admired, but also experienced. In the past, Wanju was the site of 70% of Korea¡¯s Hanji (traditional hand-made paper) production, and Kim Han-seop carries on the tradition here today. Visitors can see not only the traditional paper-making method, but also a range of art products made from Hanji. Encountering the rich history of southern Wanju inspires us to reflect upon what should be preserved and what should be developed today.

The Rediscovery of Value

Wanju is the sort of place where apparently useless things can be given new purpose with just a little bit of thought. Take Bibijeong Art Train, for example. The county government bought four old train cars and remodeled them into a restaurant, art shop and cafe. The renovated train now perches atop an unused rail bridge on the Mangyeonggang River. Bibijeong Art Train has become a popular spot for viewing a spectacular sunset on the river. While the train no longer serves its original purpose, it now offers visitors a poignant, beautiful landscape—something it couldn¡¯t have done in its former life rolling down the tracks.

Many cultural and art spaces in Wanju have gotten a new lease on life in this way. An old granary became the Samnye Culture Art Village, which blends historical and contemporary culture. A place where silkworms (in Korean, nue) were once bred has returned to life as the Open Space Nu-e, a platform for local artists. The red lighthouse in the hills of Soyang Township was repurposed from a smokestack at a paper mill that had been abandoned for four decades. And the paper mill has been transformed into a culture center, too.

Wanju is a land where not only people, but things, have the chance to take a break and find new value. Plus, it¡¯s within easy reach of anywhere in Korea. Wherever you choose to visit, Wanju is ready to provide some precious moments of rejuvenation.