Gwaneumdo Island Between Endless Waters and Lush Silver Grass

The waves break gently on the pebble beach. The rugged coast of Ulleungdo Island is lined with pebbles, boulders and strange rock formations. An hour¡¯s drive around the coastal ring road leads you to the entrance of Gwanseon Tunnel, the gateway to Gwaneumdo Island. As the third largest island in the waters surrounding Ulleungdo Island itself, Gwaneumdo Island is an uninhabited outcropping of outstanding natural beauty.

I pay the admission fee and enter a white building about 30 meters tall. I take the elevator to the seventh floor, the highest one. Feeling the cool sea breeze on my skin, I head toward Yeondo Bridge, the interisland pedestrian walkway that connects Ulleungdo and Gwaneumdo islands. I feel a rush as the powerful waves crash upon the rocks below. The trail on Gwaneumdo passes a total of three view spots. I stop at one to enjoy the magnificent view of Ulleungdo and the small island of Jukdo. Lying far out on the northwest side is Samseonam Rock, and to the southwest is the Haengnam Coastal Walk. To the back of the island is the Gwaneumssanggul Cave, where ¡ª legend has it ¡ª water dripping from the roof is the key to longevity.

I continue down the trail. I have blue waters on my right, and a meadow of silver grass on my left. The plumes of silver grass dance in the wind. It takes less than an hour to walk the perimeter of the island, but its autumnal beauty leaves a long-lasting impression.

Nari Basin
When Berries Turn Ripe Red

I head inland to the Nari Basin, the largest flat area on Ulleungdo Island. It¡¯s fascinating that there are people living in this caldera, which is almost 200 hectares in area. The vast plain-like basin is home to wild vegetables, such as mountain garlic, deodeok, and Amur wallflowers. In autumn, the ripening rowan berries add a dash of red to the island. The people of Ulleungdo Island use these berries to brew wine. Shingle-roofed houses, with rocks placed on top of wood shingles, and thatched-roof houses made of cornstalks and silver grass, are also common sights. These were the architectural styles prevalent in the early days of the island.

Among the many paths leading to Seonginbong, the highest peak on the island, the most beautiful is the Nari Basin Forest Trail. This path begins in the Nari Basin and passes the Albong Basin and the Sillyeongsu Mineral Spring. I¡¯m greeted not only by old, majestic trees, like beech and Acer okamotoanum Nakai, but also a wide range of rare, endemic species, including the Ulleung chrysanthemum and the Turk¡¯s-cap lily.

The walk has left me hungry. It¡¯s time to dig in to a healthy meal made from fresh, local ingredients. The table is covered with a bowl of bibimbap mixed rice and seasoned vegetables as side dishes. You can literally walk into any restaurant on the island for a delicious meal. As I bite into a piece of deodeok pancake, I order a bottle of Ulleungdo pumpkin makgeolli rice wine to pair with the food.

Haengnam Coastal Walk Breathtaking
Scenery of Fabulous Waves

The Haengnam Coastal Walk is a meandering path that extends from Dodong Port, home to 2,500-year-old juniper trees, all the way to Chotdaebawi Rock near Jeodong Port. The scenery that unfolds before your eyes is quite different from what you get to see inland. Throughout the two hour walk to Jeodong Port and back, you will be constantly amazed by the glorious gifts of nature, ranging from rugged cliffs to sea caves.

The iron bridge and deck overlook clear waters, and the surroundings are a sight to behold. The bizarre-shaped cliffs and massive rocks are the result of various geological processes, and also serve as evidence of volcanic activity on the island many years ago. You can spot some fish tucked away in holes in the rocks formed from the cooling of the magma.

The Haengnam Lighthouse sits in the middle of the path between Dodong Port and Jeodong Port. In the fall, you will find scattered pine cones and bright yellow flowers of the leopard plants. The beech trees growing in the gaps of the cliffs will leave you in awe of their tenacious hold on life. By this time, you will have grown acquainted with a few seagulls that are pestering you for food.