While in Korea

Writer. Choi Yeonu
Illustrator. RYUGOON

Behind the dazzling skyscrapers of the city and down an alley tightly packed with buildings and the scent of life sits an old restaurant that has been there for decades. A peek inside what seems like a hideout for the neighborhood¡¯s elders reveals an unexpected scene. More than half of the seats are occupied by students in school uniforms and young people in fancy attire. The restaurant is full of people who are on a so-called ¡°Nopo Tour.¡±

Old but Hip

Restaurants that have been around for ages can be found in cities and rural areas alike. In Korea, these places are known as nopo. The no in nopo means ¡°old¡± while po means ¡°store.¡± Nopo have generally retained their old appearance and flavor.

Many hip restaurants and cafes these days seemingly transport visitors to completely different cities. People and places have also been churning out food with increasingly stimulating, addictive and even unconventional flavors. Nopo seemingly go against this trend, both in their vibe and the food they serve.

These days, people are crazy about nopo. People no longer consider nopo simply as restaurant options. They are increasingly willing to travel and wait in line just for the experience. This trend is mostly seen among young Koreans. Many people question this trend since nopo aren¡¯t new or fancy.

There are two main reasons why young consumers love nopo. The first reason is ¡°guaranteed taste.¡± Korean restaurants often open or change their menus to remain in line with consumer trends. The problem is that the trends are very short-lived. Trends also tend to have similar patterns. Many consumers have grown weary of trying to keep up with all of them. However, nopo are recognized for their sustainability, their longevity based on their food and service. The number of people visiting nopo has increased as consumers search for places that focus on the essentials rather than current trends.

The second reason why people love nopo is ¡°unexpected newness.¡± While older people often consider nopo old and boring given that they have enjoyed them for decades, younger people find nopo new and exciting. Restaurants that have been in business since before they were born and have maintained the same taste for generations stand in sharp contrast with the trends young people have come to expect from the restaurant industry. Every aspect of nopo is unique, from the interior and exterior to the taste and history. Young people have become captivated by nopo because they value their own individuality while placing great importance on finding fun things to experience. For this reason, Koreans, from the younger generation to the old, continue to visit nopo.

Nopo Becomes the Content

How do people who are obsessed with nopo find and experience these restaurants? Trends related to nopo can actually be found through social media. In particular, many people post articles with hashtags after visiting nopo to certify that they have actually visited them. People also create accounts that focus on visiting and introducing nopo.

That¡¯s not all. Celebrities and influencers alike create content on video platforms like YouTube by visiting nopo in different regions. They go to areas outside of Seoul to introduce hidden restaurants that other influencers talk about or ask residents on the street to introduce nopo that represent the area.

In addition, many people use online map services to create their own nopo maps and share them with others. People don¡¯t even have to go online for information on nopo. Books about nopo are being published such as ones that talk about visits to nopo, ones that include interviews with nopo owners, essay books that describe the feelings people have while visiting nopo, and travel books made solely for nopo.

National organizations and local governments have stepped up to designate and highlight old restaurants with storied histories. These old restaurants are the living, breathing history of the region. The Ministry of SMEs and Startups has designated restaurants nationwide that have been in operation for more than 30 years as century-old stores. In addition, the Seoul Metropolitan Government has introduced Seoul Future Heritage as proposed by citizens, with a separate category for restaurants. The category features over 50 old restaurants that opened between 1920 and 1970.

Individuals, groups and even the government pay attention to nopo. This is because nopo are delicious, appealing, interesting and meaningful. Moreover, everyone has their own reasons for visiting nopo. This trend of seeking out things from the past rather than chasing the latest trends is valuable in and of itself. Nopo are a great way to bridge the gap between the older and younger generations by preserving history while enjoying the present.