Contents
Local Taste · Written by Park Jina Photographed by Studio Kenn
Healthy and
Flavorful Fish
Mineo
Summer in Korea is the season of mineo (croaker). Before the breeding season that lasts from July to October,
mid-May to late August brings an abundance of the fish and a peak in quality and nutrition.
Even kings in the country¡¯s past supposedly ate the fish when the summer heat sapped their energy.
The seafood markets of Sinan-gun County, a region considered the national hub
of mineo since the early 1900s, still offer plenty of scrumptious dishes.
The word mineo means ¡°commoner¡¯s fish,¡± which is ironic considering that the fish is now one of the rarest foods in modern Korea. An old saying goes that ¡°mineo soup is the best and domi (snapper) soup is second best.¡± Once abundant enough to catch and serve to commoners, mineo is now far from common as mackerel has taken over as the most common fish dish on Korean dinner tables.
Living 40-120 meters under water, mineo feeds on small fish, shrimp and clams and usually live in muddy seawater. The fish also stay deep in the water by day and move up to the surface by night. Other characteristics include a long lifespan of 12-13 years and a body length of up to more than 1 meter. Though it looks a lot like jogi (yellow croaker), mineo is four to five times larger. Koreans often say that if eating mineo, eat the biggest one not because bigger size means better taste but because a larger fish provides more special cuts that are considered delicacies.
Depending on region or size, mineo has several names. For example, the variety served in Seoul or Incheon keeps its name only when its size is larger than four hand spans; eosregi refers to a mineo smaller than three hand spans and gari under two. Old records also mention the fish, as Joseon Dynasty scholar Jeong Yak-jeon called it myeoneo in his book. ¡°The large ones are as long as 121-151 cm, with a slightly round shape in yellow-white or bluish black. It has a large mouth and scales, tastes simple yet sweet and is suitable for consumption either raw or cooked, but dried is even better. The fish¡¯s air bladder is used to make glue,¡± he wrote.
Glue made with mineo¡¯s air bladder, burepul, has excellent adhesive properties utilized to make traditional crafts in the past like najeonchilgi (mother-of-pearl lacquerware) or gakgung (horn bow). Even a traditional folk song from the province contains lyrics on the glue's outstanding qualities. The bladder is also a high quality food ingredient. The best way to consume it is raw after separating it from freshly caught mineo and dipping it in sesame oil sauce. The soft texture combined with a mild flavor and chewy skin results in a satisfyingly savory taste.
Variety of Dishes
A mineo¡¯s air bladder is bigger than typically found in other fish, which makes it vulnerable to bloating that could easily kill it. Thus the fish¡¯s blood should be drained immediately after it is caught because if the blood spreads throughout the meat once the mineo dies, a foul smell results. A full-course mineo meal using this draining method is especially popular in summer as an energy booster.
To make a mineo dish, remove the scales first since they are tough and large. Remove the head and insides and slice the meat into two chunks. Take out the ribs and presto, the belly meat is prepared. The body is usually divided into the belly, with a bit of red meat still attached, and the white backside meat. The skin is also edible so carefully separate and keep it aside. A variety of cooking methods maximize flavor.
Cooking starts with the belly meat. Cut the belly¡¯s skin in a diamond shape and pour hot water on top to see the skin rise and open up like a flower. Then immediately put this in ice water to bring out the fish¡¯s firm and bouncy texture. Then separate the rest of the meat. Make thick cuts for red meat around the belly and thinly slice the other parts of the belly. After adding the air bladder and skin separated earlier, mineohoe (a sliced raw croaker dish) is ready for serving.
Mineotang (croaker stew), with a clean and deep flavor, is the last dish of a mineo full course.
The preferred way to consume mineo¡¯s thick meat is to batter and fry it.Going from the bladder to the belly, red and white meat, and finally the skin, each part of the fish offers a distinct unique flavor and texture, making it hard to believe that such a variety of dishes can come from the same fish.
The side dish mineojeon (croaker pancake) is another treat. Bread the mineo fillet with flour, eggs, salt and pepper and pan-fry until it turns crispy. A bite of hot crispy pancake has a simple savory flavor while the meat and fat work in perfect balance.
The last meal of the course is mineotang (croaker stew), which gives the fish the title as the ultimate Korean summer food for health. Because Koreans believe they can endure the summer heat by warming themselves up, this fatty and rich stew is one of the country¡¯s most popular summer foods. First, make a clean soup base with mineo¡¯s thick bones just like a regular bone broth. Add vegetables to make jiritang, and the spicy version maeuntang is possible by adding red pepper powder and sesame oil.
A small-size mineo is still no petit fish.
Imjado Island in Sinan-gun County is mineo¡¯s largest habitat in the country, with the country¡¯s freshest and best mineo dishes. Most mineo delivered to other cities like Mokpo, Incheon or Seoul is all caught here. If picking one item from the menu is difficult, a full course comes with sliced raw mineo, spicy raw mineo salad, pancake and maeuntang for the ultimate experience. Since many places offer special cuts like air bladder or skin, this option ensures the complete mineo experience.
During spawning season, male mineo usually tastes better than their egg-filled female counterparts, as well as providing extra meat. Besides its taste, mineo offers numerous health benefits such as aiding digestion, stimulating muscular growth and restoring energy in addition to being good for dieting, anti-aging and skin rejuvenation. Altogether, the hearty and healthy mineo is now a luxury food in Korea and a summer treat to both nourish the body and indulge in a gastronomical delight.
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