Gochujang, ganjang and doenjang are Korea¡¯s best-known fermented foods. Fermentation is a feature of cuisines around the world, ranging from the yeast in leavened bread to cheese and yogurt, both of which are fermented dairy products. Most of the dishes served at our table use gochujang, ganjang or doenjang. It¡¯s challenging to find a Korean dish that doesn¡¯t include them. That includes soups and stews, entrees of all kinds and even Korea¡¯s go-to side dishes. Rarely does a national cuisine feature such a wide range of fermentation applications. Most Korean households stock three critical kinds of jang for seasoning. Jang has constantly evolved throughout five millennia of Korean history, becoming an indispensable component of Korean cuisine today.
In the past, jang was a critical element in the flavor of food. That led Koreans to bestow special meaning on these condiments. In addition to seasoning food, they were regarded as an omen of good fortune or bad luck for the family. It¡¯s understandable when we recall that jang is used in many Korean dishes. When the jang tastes good, all the family¡¯s food tastes good. That naturally leads to better appetites among the family members, keeping them healthier and making them more productive. But when the jang isn¡¯t flavorful, all the dishes taste off, which people thought would lead to poor health for the whole family. There was a certain logic to this attitude, especially at a time when nobody ate out.
Given these factors, Koreans have always taken jang-making very seriously. They were very selective about the day of preparations and even held a ceremony to consecrate the day. There were dozens of rules that had to be religiously followed during the preparations. That gave rise to proverbs such as ¡°Sweet jang brings good luck¡± and ¡°When the jang¡¯s flavor changes, the family is ruined.¡± Such proverbs show how highly Koreans valued jang and other kinds of fermented food. Given its close links to daily life, jang came to have an even richer flavor over time while taking on even greater significance for Koreans. The result was a powerful umami for which no other seasoning could substitute. That¡¯s also why gochujang, ganjang and doenjang can be described as the very essence of Korean cuisine. People sometimes say the most unique aspects of Korean culture are the ones with the greatest global appeal. In the end, the reason Korea¡¯s jang-based dishes are tantalizing taste buds around the world is because they retain something so authentically Korean.
Few things are as subjective as taste. A delicacy for one person might be mediocre for another. But the lack of right and wrong answers makes cuisine all the more interesting. There¡¯s no telling what the future may hold. So, what attitude should Korean chefs adopt to promote the globalization of Korean food? The answer is a willingness to try new things constantly. A dish that fails to satisfy some might knock the socks off someone else. I hope that Korean flavors will spread by word of mouth until Korean dining culture is in the global spotlight.