Tasty Doribaengbaengi in a Circle

Winter is coming to an end. Those who flinched as the cold weather came have gotten used to chilly winds and look for a taste suitable for the season. An organism deemed most suitable for this season is probably smelt.

Smelts live only in clear and cold water, which is why they are not seen from spring to fall. Their habitat is deep water with low temperatures until fall; when winter comes, they swim up right under the ice looking for proper water temperatures and grow larger. The smelt¡¯s nickname is ¡°fairy in the lake¡± as its almost transparent body shines silver. Low in calories and rich in calcium, protein and vitamins, smelt tastes savory especially in wintertime. Eating the fish raw, fried or seasoned with vegetables is also appetizing, but Okcheon-gun is famous for doribaengbaengi, a crispy and salty dish of small fried fish arranged in a circle.

Jjinhan Restaurant, located in the township of Cheongsan-myeon and at the same site over the last 30 years, has a name that sounds impressive. The names of freshwater fish dishes are displayed on local restaurants' glass wall, the most conspicuous among them being doribaengbaengi. The dish was named after its appearance: tiny freshwater fish such as smelts or minnows arranged in a circle. Of course, smelts are used in winter.

Doribaengbaengi requires intensive preparation. Smelts the size of a finger are placed densely in a ring around a skillet, eventually filling it up. The skillet must be tightly filled with fish to prevent parts from falling apart. More than 40 smelts are put in a skillet evenly and then boiled. If the fish¡¯s eyeballs bulge, that means cooking is done. Cool and then fry the boiled smelts until they turn golden in oil. The flesh could fall apart if fried before being cooled. More simply, properly fried smelt looks crispy.

Smelts are put in a skillet evenly and then boiled. Fry the boiled smelts until they turn golden in oil.

Generously glaze the fried fish with spicy, sweet and sour sauce, place plenty of sesame leaves in the center, and sprinkle sesame and hot pepper over them. A plate of doribaengbaengi looks colorful and appetizing. Eat stickily clotted smelt one by one with sesame leaves and hot pepper. The more you chew the flesh of seasoned smelt, the more savory the taste. This dish even attracts nearby residents to go out of their way to eat it, with doribaengbaengi¡¯s health benefit said to last three days.

Doribaengbaengi used to be eaten braised in soy sauce or other seasonings. More recently, however, the fish has been deep-fried to reduce cooking time. Doribaengbaengi is a proud provincial specialty. Visit Okcheon-gun County to taste this delicious and well-known health food.

An appetizing doribaengbaengi is ready with a side of fried fish and fish noodles.